cutting carbon shafts - arrow building

Sup Gang, wondering what you guys use to cut carbon shafts. Where can I get one and price range? Aloha, Lyle

sup lyle, I don't mess with carbon shafts but I did a little research. You need one of those machies. I think teh cheapest is like $75 or something.

Here is one I just found.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=5621

If you allready know all of this, sorry.

Arrow saw
http://www.cabelas.com/p-0039351.shtml

Or a dremel will also work.

Lyle B,
I use your basic run of the mill hand held Dremel tool with the small cut off circular tip, its kinda like very hard sandpaper. It works great and I have been using it for years without any probs. I just mark the desired arrow length with a sharpie. I then cut about 1-2 inches above my desired mark. This will give you a cut thats angled because the excess arrow shaft near the tip will get in the way of a flush cut. After removing the bulk of the unwanted shaft you will be left with only the 1-2 inches remaining,now there is no excess shaft stopping you from making a clean and perfectly flushed cut. I dont use any vises etc other than my hands and even if there is a small deviation in the cut you can apply the shaft end onto the cutting disc and "sand" it down perfectly.
Hope this helps.

Alohaz and Happy hunting
MAUKAKANE1
Onipa'a a ku ha'aheo

I do the same thing as Maukakane with the dremel too. I then use a G-5 ASD Arrow Squaring Device to finish it square. On Archery Talk in the DIY section guys are making their own arrow saws with a $28
Bench top cut-off saw from Harbor Freight. If you check out AT, there are several variations that people made to spin the arrows while cutting for a smooth cut, yard sticks, etc.

Mahalo boys for the tips. MauiRhino, funny man jus was looking into Harbor Freight because heard they get unreal deals for cheap. Looks like the Dremel is the way to go but just might take a look into the bench saw. Anyways going give this arrow building a shot.

Aloha!!!!

I also use the dremel with the circular cutting tip. If you hold the dremel just right upside down with the cutting end of the dremel pointed at your gut you can hook your forefinger over the front end of the shaft and with the arrow shaft tucked under your arm with the arrow tip you are cutting pointing out away from you spin the shaft with your other hand to get a even cut. Just pull your t-shirt up over your nose and take it slow. Use the highest setting on your dremel and make sure it's fully charged. You want as much RPMs as you can get.

I just ordered the bench top cutoff saw on Ebay (anacondatool) for $ 18.50 + $ 10.00 shipping. I had one ordered from Harbor freight with a couple of other small items and they wanted $30 shipping. Canceled that order.
The reason I ordered this tool is I had used a grinder with a thin blade and cut a dozen shafts. I made a makeshift jig and cut them as strait as possible. Glued my inserts in, learned how to change the string on my bow, tuned it up and started shooting the target. Shooting was OK, not terrible, not great. I wanted more accuracy so I reset my limbs, nock height, rest and sight. Now hitting fairly accurately with target tips, I decided to shoot some broadheads. That is when it went haywire. I could see the arrows curving right out of the slot and missed the target completely once and then grazed the top (Ok, OK, that is when I figured out my sight had vibrated loose and was low). But they were still curveball.
I checked to see if the fletching was hitting something and other stuff, and finally looked at my broadheads. Spinning them on my fishing rod wrapping tool, with a staionary point in front of the tip, I could see the inserts were not square. Some of them were spinning in 1/4" circles! Not near as noticable on target tips, but add a longer broadhead tip and the difference is dramatic. Then shoot it with a fixed broadhead "wing" and no wonder the thing flies all lolo. I understand mechanicals are not as bad as they fly like a target tip.
My arrows will be cut precisely from now on and my bolts will be checked before each hunting trip. BTW, I shot the trued broadheads, and one shaved the fletching off of one of my trued arrows stuck in the target, and I only had three trued arrows (I did them tediuosly with an electric sharpening tool and reglued the inserts) That left me with two arrows and wanted to go hunting today ( which I did) Now I have to buy a damn fletching tool
Learnin as I go!

Broadheads are going to reveal every little flaw in your setup. Especially with fixed broadheads, which I prefer. Like Mauirhino said use the ASD from G5. It is Godsend of a tool. Before I stared using that it was hit or miss as far as spinning the broadheads and getting the insert to sit square. Now broadheads and target tips all go the same place. After the initial setup and then broadhead tuning that is.